Japan’s beauty exists in many forms. Far-removed from the technology-rich metropolis of Tokyo is the south western region of Kyushu. Its rustic elegance and wildlife are captivating like a jewel unscathed by the passage of time. Despite being a mere 14,000mi² in total (roughly the same size as Maryland), Kyushu houses 9 active volcanoes. This high concentration of geothermal activity nourishes thick green forests and a colourful array of wildflowers even in winter months.

Situated in Kumamoto prefecture between mainland Kyushu’s tallest mountain and a caldera that encompasses Japan’s most active volcano is the onsen resort of Kurokawa. Many outdoor baths provide scenic viewpoints of a river which winds through this quaint village. As an onsen enthusiast who has been hot spring hopping in 6 of Kyushu’s 7 prefectures, my retreat to Kurokawa has been the most rewarding so far. The food, nature, architecture, inhabitants, and water will heal even the tiredest bodies.

I visited Kurokawa by car because there is a lot to see and do along the way. However, it is also possible to take the Aso Yufu Kohara and the Kyushu Odan buses from Aso station, which is the closest train station to the resort. It takes about an hour on either bus. Kurokawa is about two hours from Beppu and Yufuin by bus, but both lines are also available at these locations. Parking is limited in Kurokawa, but most ryokan have a parking space for each room.

Apart from the occasional vehicle that delicately navigates the narrow streets, Kurokawa’s surreal beauty emanates an era of antiquity. I felt like I was able to leave my troubles behind and rejuvenate my spirit in this place. It was also here that I took notice of Kyushu’s invigorating charms. Ferns, moss, and lichen blanket every stone surface, which remind me of the coexistence between humans and nature. Amicable workers welcomed me to explore their businesses, creating ample opportunities for light conversations. If their warm smiles weren’t alluring enough, the buildings’ interiors and products did the trick.

The traditional architecture of Kurokawa makes it appear that it’s been untouched by modernity altogether. Most visitors wear traditional Japanese garments, so I didn’t feel out of place donning a yukata for an afternoon stroll. Kurokawa is full of narrow paths and stone staircases wind dramatically between inns, cafes, and specialty stores. The town’s aesthetics pair with the locals’ hospitality to make it feel as if there’s a memory waiting to be made around every corner.

I made my way back to the ryokan around the time that my dinner would be served. As my friends and I sat down, the relaxation brought on by Kurokawa was visible in their faces and their posture. We weren’t just happy to be there; our spirits had been uplifted and our minds focused. The extravagant affair that was our dinner more than justified the cost of our stay. For two hours, we feasted on local and seasonal dishes including grilled mackerel, maple leaf-shaped tofu, and Kumamoto’s renowned raw horse (basashi).

In terms of Japanese onsen towns, Kurokawa is a relatively cheap getaway. There are 28 ryokan to choose from, and all but two of them have outdoor baths. The price of a night’s stay and two meals at most of the ryokan is between ¥10,000-15,000 per person with the cheapest being ¥6,400. In the case of a day trip, each bath can be visited for a nominal fee of ¥500-800. Kurokawa’s tourist information desk offers onsen passes (nyūtō tegata) made from local Oguni cedar that double as an attractive souvenir. For ¥1300 (¥700 for kids) this pass lets you enjoy any three open-air baths in the area.

Breakfasts at ryokan are always a little bittersweet for me. I feel as if I’m clinging to the celebrations of the previous day with my final moments as a guest. With this weighing down my heart, some generous employees gifted me a hand-written thank you and a photo of my group they’d taken earlier. A smile grew across my face as I thought of all the memories I had made in this town. Looking up at it on my living room wall brings me back to that weekend I spent in Kumamoto prefecture. Every moment in Kurokawa is magical, so I really can’t recommend a visit to this area enough. It changed my life, and it will do the same for you.