Nature and Sport trip
- AREA
- FUKUOKA KUMAMOTO OITA MIYAZAKI
- DAYS
- 3D2N
On a cold weekend in early December, I did a little tour of Kyushu from Oita to Mount Aso and then south to Miyazaki Prefecture.
My trip spanned three days and I stayed in two onsen hotels, ate a lot of seafood, soaked in many an onsen and saw some amazing parts of Japan that I didn't know existed. These little spots are places that may be a little off the main tourist path for those going through Kyushu but if you happen to venture down this side of Japan, it would be worthwhile checking out a few of these. I think the list of places I went to has a little something for everyone.
My personal favourite spots were Aoshima and Takachiho. These two places made it to my top 2 because each area had a number of different things to see and do which were all within a short walking distance from each other. If you are travelling by car, it is always nice to find a place where you can stop and maybe have something to eat, sit down for a little bit, rest and then visit some amazing points of interest within the same area. Aoshima also scored points because it was just so different to any other part of Japan that I had been to before. It was so tropical and lush. At times, I thought I was travelling through Bali or Thailand. And Takachiho, I loved this part of the tour because it was just utterly beautiful and the gorge and the waterfall just took my breath away.
There is something really special about travelling through Kyushu and how the experience helps you connect to the land, its people and its culture. Every place I visited, every shrine I came across, every person I held a conversation with, helped deepen my connection to this part of Japan. It’s really given me a newfound perspective about Japan that sits at my doorstep.
One of the things I loved about doing a three day road trip was the fact that Kyushu is surprisingly varied in its scenery. There are deep green forests, gorges and waterfalls (Takachiho), amazing mountain ranges (Mount Aso and Daikanbo), windswept plains (Kusasenri), tropical beach towns (Aoshima) and steep slopes that get covered by snow once winter truly sets in. It is really astounding to see the breadth of texture in the landscape, especially since each location is relatively close to each other. There is always a special place to explore and be swept up by the wanderlust of it all.
I also loved seeing how Kyushu moves so gracefully through the changes in its seasons. You can see this in the landscape where the forests transform into gold and red wonderlands in the autumn and also how the food here is seasonal. The people in these towns show a great amount of respect for the land and the seasons and where their food comes from.
Above all, this trip has taught me to continue to stay curious and to explore this spiritual country with wide eyes and with a big open heart. There is just so much to learn and to experience.
For someone who craves the stillness and grounding presence of nature and a good soak at an onsen, Kyushu has so much to offer.
＼ START ／
DAY 1 Hakata Station
Level 5 stadium
Fukuoka City will be the first Asian city to host the Rugby World Cup in 2019. The location will be here at the Level 5 Stadium - a state of the art football facilitiy located in the Hakata Ward. Currently, it is used for both international and national rugby and American football games. It is also the home stadium of Avispa Fukuoka, the local football (soccer) team.
Upon visiting, I was initially awestruck by the size of the place. I remembered going to visit the MCG in Melbourne when I was younger, but this place felt completely different. I felt like I was walking into the future.
It wasn't just the size of this football field that had me intrigued, but I found the architecture to be particularly interesting. With its futuristic arcs and curved roof, it reminded me of something out of a science fiction film. Located approximately 20 minutes from Hakata by car, the Level 5 Stadium has been built with nature as its backdrop which I loved, orchestrating a beautiful dance between this futuristic marvel of architecture and nature.
Level 5 Stadium, stands quietly amongst the lush Japanese foliage of Higashi Hirao Park. It's difficult to imagine just how much the energy would change when crowds gather in excitement for a game. It would be certainly fascinating to return when a game is on.
Level Five Stadium
HOURS OF OPERATION : 9:00～21:00
Kuju Forest Park Skiing Ground
If you have dreams of escaping into nature and getting away from the hustle of the city, even during the bleakest days of winter, then the Kujyu Forest Park located in the Oita Prefecture is definitely worth considering. Especially if you are a bit of a ski bunny.
Skiing in Japan, for an Australian like me, is very very affordable. A ticket for the chairlift will cost you less than 6000 yen for a full day of skiing - it's even cheaper than going to Disneyland!
The Kujyu Forest Park is the largest skiing ground in Kyushu, boasting slopes that run for over two kilometres. There are three different courses from beginner to advanced to suit your personal level and also recreational areas for children and families to enjoy the snow and do a spot of sledding as well.
This area is one of the few skiing grounds in Kyushu and even though it is small in comparison to the ski resorts of Hokkaido, I think there is something invigorating about spending time in the mountains here. One of the things I love about being surrounded by the beautiful snow covered slopes is that the experience is always paired with little moments of joy - like sitting with a hot cup of coffee, looking out into the wintery wonderland or soaking your body in the rejuvenating waters of a hot onsen after a long day of skiing. These little add-ons complete the experience.
Kuju Forest Park Ski Area
HOURS OF OPERATION : 【Season】 Between December and March 【Opening Hours】 weekday：9:00～17:00 Weekend：8:30～17:30
FEES : 【On weekday】 1day ticket：Adult 5,000yen, Child(under 12) 4,000yen, Child(under 5) 2,500yen, Senior(over60) 4,500yen 4 hours ticket：Adult 4,000yen, Child(under 12) 3,000yen, Child(under 5) 2,000yen, Senior(over60) 3,500yen 【On weekend】 1day ticket：Adult 7,500yen, Child(under 12) 6,500yen, Child(under 5) 4,500yen, Senior(over60) 7,000yen 4 hours ticket：Adult 4,500yen, Child(under 12) 3,500yen, Child(under 5) 2,000yen, Senior(over60) 4,000yen 8 hours ticket：Adult 5,500yen, Child(under 12) 4,500yen, Child(under 5) 2,500yen, Senior(over60) 5,000yen
Daikanbo
I love the ever-changing landscape of Kyushu. I rode past frost-covered slopes to bubbling hot springs and zoomed through wild yellow fields. After lunch, I came across Daikanbo - a spectacular lookout spot which offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Aso and Kuju mountain ranges. You can also see the Aso Village below from this vantage point.
In December, the grassy fields are a gloriously bright yellow. This grass spreads through the entire area surrounding the peak of Daikanbo and creates a picture perfect frame for mountains in the distance.
From the carpark, a gentle walk through a windy trail through grass takes you up towards the peak of Daikanbo. I found it quite meditative to be walking along this path and to be greeted with such a pleasant view at the top was just the cherry on the cake for me.
It was around 3 pm when I arrived. The sun, with its long afternoon shadows, brought out the magic of this place. It would be really lovely to come here to see the sunset or pack a picnic lunch. Especially if you are already in the Aso area, it is definitely a worthwhile detour.
Daikanbo Peak
KUSASENRI
I came across the prairie of Kusasenri in the late afternoon. By this time, the sun was just beginning to set and the icy chill of the winter wind began to pick up speed.
This spot is another example of the variety of different landscapes of Kyushu. The prairie spreads wide and far until it hits the base of the mountain ranges of Mount Eboshidake in the distance.
In the summer, the grass turns a deep green and visitors can enjoy a day of horse riding and hiking here. In the wintertime though, there are no horses to be found in this area so if you are keen to take a walk through the plains, I would recommend checking the website to confirm schedules.
The view is also worth the pitstop if you happen to visit Mount Aso in the warmer months. When I visited, I saw people hiking and taking in the fresh mountain air. In the distance, I spied a cable car going up further into the mountains. However, this service is only available during certain months of the year.
On reflection, I would love to return to Kusasenri, perhaps during the spring so I could do a hike.
Kusasenri
FEES : Round trip on a cable car from the parking lot to the caldera: *Group rate for adults: 900 yen *Group rate for junior / high school students: 800 yen *Group rate for small children / elementary school students: 400 yen
Minami Aso Onsen
I arrived at the Minimami Aso Onsen Hotel just after the sun had set. It was a welcome treat to be greeted and ushered into a warm foyer with a place to rest my feet after spending a day out and about.
The Minimami Aso Onsen Hotel is very large. Although it has an onsen inside the hotel, one could say that it is a western style hotel fitted with Japanese tatami rooms. It is a good hotel to stay if you are travelling with a family and looking for a simple place to find solace at a reasonable price.
I checked into my room which faced Mount Aso directly. The mountains filled the wide bay window of my room and I sat for a few moments, a cup of freshly brewed green tea nestled in my hands, admiring the view.
Dinner was a buffet style set up in the hotel’s dining room. There was a wide selection of Japanese dishes including some dishes that were made using local produce and ingredients. It's always nice to see local ingredients and the traditional methods for food preparation honoured in restaurants so I really liked this special touch, too. It’s also a lovely way to introduce a traveller with a curious palate to the local cuisine and culture.
After dinner, I prepared for my evening routine. I spent some time soaking in the outdoor onsen, enjoying the contrast between the cold winter air on my shoulders and face and the heat of the onsen water. I took out the futon and sheets and made a little bed on which to rest for the evening. I find that sleeping in a tatami room on a futon always makes for better sleep. The smell of the tatami and the grounding feeling of sleeping on a futon on the floor for some reason comfort me.
Minami Aso Onsen
＼ START ／
DAY 2 Minami Aso Onsen
Takachiho Gorge
Takachiho is located in Miyazaki Prefecture. This area is so beautiful. It was the first time I had been to Miyazaki and I love waterfalls - so on this day, the stars were all aligned and I was the happiest person in the world!
I arrived early in the morning before the tourists descended upon this little spot and found calming energy. Despite it being early, there were already a few travellers here taking photos of the spectacular gorge, a steep chasm where the Gokase River runs and the Minainotaki waterfall can be admired. Standing on the bridge overlooking the gorge, I saw couples in rowboats, paddling out to get a closer glimpse of the cascading waterfall. The bright green foliage creates a protective canopy over parts of the gorge and to the distance, the vibrant reds and autumnal yellows light up the mountains. It is truly stunning.
Paddling on a rowboat, I too approached the waterfall. I was mesmerised by the 17 meter drop of pelting water from above, its cool mist gentle caressing my face. It was another incredible display of nature’s power and beauty. It is said to be one of the most beautiful and most loved waterfalls in Japan and I can see why.
Takachiho Gorge
Takachiho Shrine
About 10 minutes further from the gorge by car takes you to the Takachiho Shrine. Takachiho is steeped in traditional Japanese mythology. It is said to be where the original queen of the gods descended from the heavens, arriving in this part of Japan. However, this shrine is dedicated to the Gods of Takachihosumegami and Jisshyadaimyoujin who are considered to be the Gods of agriculture, harvest and for reversing bad luck. It is also a good thing for those in relationships, for it is a shrine where people come to seek blessings for a happy marriage. Two giant cedars stand with their trunks fused together beside the shrine, looking a bit like a husband and wife team and are affectionately referred to as the Couple Cedar. It is said that if you walked around these cedars with your partner three times, it brings happiness to your relationship!
Takachiho Shrine
Kisakihama
Whenever I chat to people about Miyazaki, the first thing they remark upon is how good the surfing is. Kisakihama is known throughout Japan for being a wonderful surfing spot.
I came here on a cloudy wintery afternoon and still I was shocked to see enthusiastic surfers bobbing up and down on the water, anxiously awaiting the next wave. I put my hands in the shallows of the waves to see how cold it would be and was immediately consumed by the icy chill. After this little experiment, I came to respect the surfers for braving the cold and giving up the warmth of a nice scarf. But I am told that the rush and exhilaration that one gets from surfing is worth it.
It was quite a sight to watch the surfers take to the waves. They seemed to be meditating on the energy of each wave, seeing whether it would be the one that they could take a chance on. I wondered how they decided which were worth taking and which they would pass up on.
The waves on that day were not particularly big or scary like I secretly hoped they would be. It was just a little choppy so it seemed to be a challenge for the surfers to find the one wave that wouldn't break too soon. For a surfing enthusiast, this would be a nice place in Kyushu for surfing.
Surfing Spots
Aoshima Shrine
The Aoshima Shrine is built upon an island, off the coast of Aoshima Beach. It is easily accessible on foot from the beach via Yayoi Bridge.
Surrounding this island are an interesting group of natural rock formations called the Devil’s Washboard (Onino Sentakuita). Rows of flat rocks miraculously formed along the coastline due to weathering of the waves. Stretching for kilometres, the Devil’s Washboard is called such because of its resemblance to the old-fashioned wooden washboards used for scrubbing clothes. Upon first glance, I thought that these rocks were artificial constructs as each piece looked so angular and perfectly aligned in rows. However, locals are adamant that these formations are indeed natural.
If planning a visit, be sure to check the tide conditions as the Devil's Washboard isn’t always visible. I went in the late afternoon and could only see a few of the pieces protruding from the surface. I think at low tide these row formations would be an incredible sight to see.
If you continue along and past the red tori gate at Aoshima, you will get to a shrine that is built into the jungles of the island. It felt like I had suddenly wandered into a sacred Thai forest. This island has a distinctly tropical feel - tree branches twisted and draping over large tropical plants and the sounds of birds cawing. I absolutely loved it. This is such a beautifully interesting shrine and one that I will definitely remember.
This is an island shrine often visited by lovers. Couples come to pray for happy relationships and romances. They write their wishes on wooden blocks called ema and hang them in the jungle archways of the shrine.
Aoshima-jinja Shrine (Aoshima Station on the JR Nichinan Line)
FEES : Shrine visit: free. Hinata Legends Hall: *Adults: 600 yen. *Junior/high school students: 400 yen. (Discounts for groups).
AOSHIMA ONSEN
The Aoshima Grand Hotel is conveniently located near to the Aoshima shrine, the Aoshima Subtropical Botanical Garden (which is declared a national treasure of Japan) and a small cluster of shops and restaurants that brings out the relaxed, seaside feel of this coastal town.
The hotel rooms windows face out onto the shoreline which is definitely most welcoming to see first thing in the morning. The rooms are very large and I was lucky to stay in one that had both a western bedroom and a tatami-floored living room which could convert into a place to sleep if you enjoy sleeping on a futon.
There is something wonderful about wearing a yukata, heading to the onsen and taking your time to bathe. For me, it really helps ease any stress that I have accumulated during the day. The Grand Hotel has two onsen areas, one on the roof of the building for those who may want a view of the beach below and one on the lower level.
On the final day of my touring, I had breakfast at the hotel. This came in the form of a lovely traditional Japanese breakfast, comprised of steamed rice, natto (fermented soybeans), fish, tsukemono (pickled vegetables), miso soup and udon. Green tea is always served - a welcome shot of caffeine to start the day. I love traditional Japanese breakfasts and taking the time to enjoy each portion of food slowly rather than gulping down a bowl of oats to run out the door. It's a lovely, conscious reminder to be present for breakfast and to begin your morning with nourishing food.
Aoshima onsen hot spring
＼ START ／
DAY 3 AOSHIMA ONSEN
EBINO PLATEAU
When I rode up to the Ebinokogen, the fog was the thickest I have ever seen. I had a few metres of visibility in front and the endless winding roads going up to the top of the mountain required extra care.
As the morning frost melted away, the fog also retreated and revealed a scenic camping ground. The area also has a hotel as well as a few shops. It was rejuvenating to be up here in the cool of the forest with the smell of pine trees all around.
Ebinokogen is home to one of the highest and largest ice skating rinks in Kyushu. On the weekends, it is especially busy. There are typically cars lined up with ice skaters itching to get into the park. However, on this overcast and cold wintery day, the rink was serene and calm with only a few eager ice skaters happily gliding across its icy blue surface.
I hadn’t been ice skating for quite a long time but courageously dared to give it a spin (literally). Ice skating and rollerblading are things I did quite often when I was a child so it felt strangely familiar yet my adult brain was freaking out for the fear that I would do a tumble and fall on my face. After a few rotations around the rink, I found my footing and became accustomed to the slipperiness of the ice beneath me. I would love to have come back here to spend a day ice skating with trees and mountains behind me and the cool mountain air whipping at my hair.
Ebino Plateau
Aoi Aso Shrine
Declared a national treasure of Japan in 2008, this shrine was constructed utilising the Momoyama style of architecture. The intricate engravings and steep thatched roofs reminded me of the roof structures of the farmhouses of Shirakawago.
A red, pedestrian bridge over a densely populated lotus flower pond creates a path to the shrine from the town. The shrine is regarded as the protector of the land of the Kuma district of Kumamoto. With approximately 90% of Kumamoto’s shrines located in this district, the Aoi Aso Shrine is one of the main ones and is a popular place of worship for the locals.
The grounds are spacious and house five buildings: the main gate, front shrine, offering hall, tower and main shrine. I noticed all the little details of this beautifully constructed shrine and took a relaxing stroll through the grounds. The breeze was dancing with the Burgundy leaves on the ground in the late afternoon sun. It is a lovely spot to spend a few quiet moments sitting under the big trees.
If you are a morning person, pay a visit to the shrine in the early hours to see the priests doing their prayers.
Aoi Aso Shrine
HOURS OF OPERATION : None
FEES : None
Hitoyoshi onsen
The area of Hitoyoshi, also known as "small Kyoto," sits along the Kuma River in Kumamoto Prefecture and is home to many natural hot springs. Travellers come to take a dip in the famous alkaline waters in one of the 20 onsens in the town.
The Hitoyoshi onsen foot bath is nestled amongst a row of little shops, just a stone's throw from the Aoi Aso Shrine. It is a small outdoor foot bath, perfect for travellers with tired feet. There is a little ledge for sitting, resting and leaving belongings while soaking your legs in the hot pools. The alkaline water is said to be gentle on the skin, leaving it feeling refreshed and smooth.
In the same area, lies Kajiyachou street. In the past, this street was lined with about 60 blacksmith shops. Now, only a few are still in operation. A stroll down the stone-paved street will see you exploring little traditional craft shops and restaurants, a tea shop and even a miso house. On a Monday afternoon, this area was very quiet and only a handful of shops were open. I think it would be better to visit on a weekend to witness the full life of this area.
Hitoyoshi Onsen
HOURS OF OPERATION : Times and prices vary from business to business
＼ GOAL ／
DAY 3 Fukuoka