Experiencing Family Life in the Countryside & Onsen Trip
- AREA
- FUKUOKA OITA KAGOSHIMA
- DAYS
- 3D2N
On a cool, clear Monday, I headed south on the bullet train from Hakata Station to begin my 3-day tour across Kyushu. I experienced zipping through nearly the entire length of Japan’s fourth-largest main Island as the train sped south to Kagoshima City. My plan was to spend two nights in unique and different accommodations, experiencing both family life in the countryside of Kagoshima and a quiet, luxurious night at an upscale ryokan (Japanese Inn) in a small, ancient onsen town in Oita. I would drive to local attractions on the way to the town of Yufuin and nearby Oita and Beppu Cities and wind up the tour with a drive around Shikanoshima Island to Kinin Park. The island is connected to Kyushu by the Uminonakamichi, literally, the road in the middle of the sea.
My most favorite places on this trip were Mt. Sakurajima and Yunohira Onsen near Yufuin. Standing on the flanks of Sakurajima, an active volcano, was unforgettable as I was able to witness a small eruption and could capture images of the ash billowing up with my camera phone. I was able to look back on the mountain against the evening sky from a safe distance in the comfort of a quiet, seaside foot bath, which was nice and warm as the night air grew chilly and the sun set over the city across the bay.
I loved walking among the many tourists from Korea, China, and SE Asia through the touristy parts of Yufuin with its multitude of craft shops and eateries, but found that the town’s quiet natural scenery just a few blocks away impressed me the most. I’m glad that Yufuin has concentrated so many fun attractions all in a single route because that leaves all the natural beauty wide open for the lone explorer to enjoy in peace on foot or by bicycle. I was able to see colorful autumn hues on the trees everywhere, even though it was the very end of November. During the day, it was still warm enough to enjoy a quiet solo walk along the flowing river, taking in the autumn leaves, the deep blue sky and the unobstructed views of Mt Yufu.
Exploring the quiet and intensely beautiful Yunohira Onsen town on foot, without a single hint of modern life like convenience stores, vending machines, talking elevators, bells ringing, and such was a real, personal “Truly Japan” experience I will treasure forever. The English-speaking staff was informative and hospitable.
On the final day of my tour, I enjoyed the drive through misty mountains on the way to Oita Sports Park Stadium, and was impressed by the sheer size of this modern facility and its massive parking lot.
The city of Beppu has a long been a destination port for cruise ships. I enjoyed watching the other tourists.
My final destination took me across “Uminonakamichi,” the road in the middle of the sea in Fukuoka.
I think travelers to Kyushu will fall in love with the great diversity of mountains, fields, and sea that are all within easy reach. Certainly experiencing the warmth of Kyushu’s people, the great food, beautiful traditional gardens and architecture are treasures that time won’t erase.
＼ START ／
DAY 1 Hakata Station
Natural Sand Bath Hall 「SARAKU」
It was a short taxi ride over from Ibusuki Station to IBUSUKI SUNAMUSHI ONSEN Natural Sand Bath. After purchasing a ticket, I was given a towel and yukata and headed downstairs to change. I was told to wear nothing underneath, just to wrap myself in the cotton robe, secure the belt, and head out the back door by the sea for my sand bath experience. As I left the building, I was handed a pair of plastic beach sandals, and off I went to bathe in the sand. The beach is manicured, rock-free with course black, volcanic sand, and looks out to mountains across the bay. I was told that one could opt to have a bath right on the beach during high tide or rainy weather, but I chose to go to a roof-covered area and bathe next to other tourists in my own little section. I was glad I chose that option, as the thought of being buried in the sand with only my towel-wrapped face showing under a tiny umbrella was worrying enough without having to consider the possibility of waves or a gust of wind, or even seagulls. I followed the instructions of the experienced shovel-wielding gents. I lowered my yukata-clad self down in the sand and these fellows literally poured shovels full of clean, warm, black, volcanic sand over me. I was buried deep enough so that I couldn’t move my arms or legs. The secret to enjoying this experience is to completely relax and go with the flow. After a few minutes, you can really feel the heat. The usual stay is up to ten minutes. I lasted a bit more than five. I was glad when my kind rescuers helped me remove the sand and I could head back inside for a shower and onsen bath. The hot sand bath really zaps the moisture from your body, so be sure to drink a bottle of spring water to rehydrate. Afterwards, you’ll feel totally clean and relaxed.
Sand Bath (Ibusuki)
HOURS OF OPERATION : 8:30am ~ 8:30pm
FEES : Adults (incl. High School) 1080 yen, Children 590 yen
Sengan-en
Sengan-en at first glance is a nice Japanese park by the sea with beautiful greenery; lovely Japanese, Chinese and Western buildings; and traditional Japanese and English gardens with a great view of Sakurajima. But as my English-speaking guide explained, Sengan-en’s story is far more than just a park. She described how the first military cannon in Japan was built by Japanese craftsmen following instructions from a book that was written in Dutch. Normally, the park’s kimono-clad guides will take you around and explain things in Japanese, with literature available for you to follow along with in English. Sengan-en has been passed down in the Shimadzu family for over 350 years. In July, 2015 Sengan-en and the Shoko Shuseikan building were recognized as World Cultural Heritage Sites related to Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution. There is much to see and do here, so you could easily spend a whole day exploring all the buildings, wandering the gardens, watching demonstrations of tea ceremony, seeing Japanese archery, dining on Kagoshima fare and gazing out over the water to Sakurajima, shopping for interesting souvenirs like cat-related products, handmade glass, sake, tea, pottery, etc. There’s even a short trekking path that offers an amazing view of the city and Mt. Sakurajima. The mild weather in each of the four seasons make Sengan-en a mandatory stop for any lover of history, culture, and nature.
Senganen Garden
HOURS OF OPERATION : 08:30 - 17:30
FEES : 200 Yen entrance fee; additional 600 Yen fee for Iso Residence tour
Sakurajima (Nagisa Park)
The thought of taking a car ferry across the bay directly to the shores of a towering, active volcano was a little scary, but local Kagoshima residents take Sakurajima’s frequent volcanic eruptions in stride. This volcano spews ash about 1000 times per year, nearly 3 time a day, and usually issues just minor cloud bursts. The day was clear when I boarded the ferry so I climbed up to the top for better viewing. Landing about 15 minutes later, it was a short ride up a windy road to the highest car-accessible observation point. From there, I climbed the stairs to look out over the mountain and the surrounding city and villages. Just as I arrived, I was lucky to capture a really fast-moving minor eruption with my cameraphone. After a few minutes snapping photos and taking videos, I returned to the car for a drive down to Nagisa Park by the seaside. It was the perfect time to catch a relaxing footbath at the edge of the water on the wooden deck, while the sun was setting over Kagoshima to the west. To the east was a clear view of Sakurajima. It was magical, and I was fortunate to be able to dip my feet in the footbath in near solitude. After the sunset, I returned to the port to catch the ferry back to the city, and drove a short distance to the guest house which was nearby, but far enough away from the city lights to appear as though in the middle of nowhere.
Mt. Sakurajima
HOURS OF OPERATION : Any Time
FEES : Ferry: Pedestrian - 160 yen (One Way) Rental car - 1,150 yen for 3-4 metre cars (One Way) - 1,600 yen for 4-5 metre cars (One Way) Sightseeing Bus: One Day Pass: 500 yen 3-4 Hour Tour: Approx 2,500 yen 6 Hour Tour: Approx 4,000 yen
Guesthouse SUEYOSHI
It was dark when I arrived at the Sueyoshi’s home in the countryside just outside of Kagoshima City. For the past five years, the Sueyoshi family has been welcoming school children from cities in Asia to experience life in the Japanese countryside. They stay in this big, traditional Japanese farm house, pick organic vegetables, cook and eat healthy home-grown food. The Sueyoshi’s get to meet young people plus they get a little help with the daily chores. In their small but diverse garden out back, they grow their own vegetables and rice. I arrived just in time for dinner, so I could enjoy a fine meal prepared by Mrs. Sueyoshi. That was great since by then I was exhausted from a full day of touring. Unlike a typical pension or ryokan, you can experience Kagoshima family-style life when you stay with the Sueyoshi Family. I ate dinner together with them in the kitchen. Normally, a guest might take a bath before dinner, but I was too hungry to wait. After a leisurely, delicious, and filling dinner featuring raw chicken sashimi, miso soup, rice, and pickles, with lots of conversation (in Japanese), I attempted to take a hot bath. It didn’t quite work out the way I had planned. Kagoshima folk have a tradition of the “Samurai Bath,” which requires extremely HOT water. I had heard about it, but didn’t want to add too much cold water to the log-heated tub. So instead, I cautiously dipped a toe in and WOW! It was so, so HOT! I ran the cold water for a short while. When I thought it was sufficiently cool, I threw caution to the wind, got into the tub, and submerged myself up to my neck. Almost immediately my poor legs couldn’t handle the heat. Red hot, I jumped right out, and took a comfortable shower. Turns out the bath water had been ‘cooled’ to a scalding 46 degrees Centigrade. I usually go for 41 degrees. I recommend simply taking a shower, unless you are able to cool the bath down. After this escapage, I was so tired, I turned off the light in my bedroom and crawled into my huge, down-filled futon and slept until 6am. Then, it was time for a full Japanese breakfast of fish, rice, miso soup, and pickles, and “natto” (fermented soybeans), served with hot tea with the Sueyoshi’s before my much-anticipated agricultural experience.
Kagoshima Chuo Station
Fruit hunting experience: MIGITA KAJITSUEN
Approaching Migita Kajitsuen, I noticed a sign for the orchard with a persimmon logo in Thai language, so I knew I was headed to a spot that must be frequented by Thai tourists. How exotic for a small Japanese orchard. Surely, it must be quite special for them to come all the way out here to this very local spot. The whole area around Tanushimaru is a fruit-pickers paradise depending on the season. When I arrived at the orchard, I could understand what the big deal was. The mountain in the background were breathtaking, and though not far from Kurume City, the orchard was set in beautiful nature. There were no Japanese tourists at that time, and the staff was happily attending to the small groups of Cantonese and English-speaking Hong Kong guests that had made the journey by rental car. No Thais, however. This is clearly a known destination for tourists from around Asia, and I was surprised to learn that it had been popular with visitors from abroad for about 5 years.
It was apparent that the owners had a clear vision for Migita Kajitsuen and that all the banners and pamphlets and signage were based on the “kaki”, persimmon, using its image, shape and color. Really simple and strangely reassuring. I was impressed with the simplicity and clarity of the branding of this garden. It transcended the need for words, but they had gone to the trouble of creating brochures in perfect English for English-speaking visitors.
Fruit Hunting
FEES : Admission is free and each facility on the farm charges its own fee.
Yufuin
Kinrin Lake in the hot spring town of Yufuin was picture-perfect on the day I was there, and full of small groups of smiling tourists enjoying the great photo-op it provided all around. With buildings rising up along the far edge, and Mt. Yufu looming high in the background, it reminded me of Switzerland. You know you’re in a mountain town, and the fresh mountain air alone is worth the trip. I didn’t stop for a bath, as my plan called for staying outside of town at a nearby hot spring resort. So, I stopped for an ice cream cone served with fruit and enjoyed strolling with my cameraphone. Wandering along the back roads or along the rivers running through Yufuin is one of my favorite activities. Even thought it’s a tourist town, very few tourists stray from the main Yunotsubo Street into the quiet backstreets. I was able to snap of few shots with no one in the background. The hustle and bustle on the main drag is fun, too. I enjoyed seeing visitors from HK, Korea, China, Taiwan, and SE Asia enjoying themselves in the shops, snapping photos of the cool exteriors or tiny gardens that are uniquely Japanese. People watching is fun in Yufuin, and I tried to imagine what life must be like for these visitors in their respective hometowns.
Yunotsubo-Kaido Street
Yunohira Onsen
I can’t say enough about how I much I enjoyed the overnight stay at Ryokan Shimizu. The quiet, mountain location was my idea of a “real Japan” location, just 15 minutes from the hustle and bustle of Yufuin. Yunohira Onsen has been a resort for about 400 years, since the Edo-Period. The weary traveler can experience a traditional Japanese inn along a flowing mountain river and explore its narrow, lantern-lit, cobblestone streets. One feels as though he has traveled back in time at this tucked-away, almost secret location. The Ryokan’s beautiful, immaculate but simple traditional wooden interior, soothing mountain and garden views, the exquisite artistic and deliciously prepared kaiseki cuisine, luxuriously-warm indoor and outdoor baths, are just perfect for escaping the stress of modern life.
The owner, Mr. Shimizu, and several other family and staff members speak English quite well, and can provide helpful information on the area.
As soon as I arrived, I took and bath. I was delighted with the Ryokan’s beautiful hot spring baths, both the cavern-like indoor bath, and the outdoor tub. The fact that no one else was there was a bonus. Next I sat down in the restaurant for a beautiful kaiseki meal, with course after course of beautifully-prepared local ingredients including radishes and mushrooms. While I was dining, my futon bedding was laid out for me on the room’s tatami mats.
Because I had glimpsed the lanterns strung along the narrow streets, I had to explore, so I set out to walk to the far end of the town. It was a real treat, dressed in yukata and walking with wooden geta sandals down past the well-kept old buildings in town. Climbing back up was a challenge, and I was so tired that I went right to bad. In the morning, a beautiful Japanese breakfast of rice, fish, miso soup, and pickles was served in the dining room.I didn’t want to leave, but I’m sure I will be back.
Yunohira Onsen
HOURS OF OPERATION : Times and prices vary from business to business
Oita Sports Park Stadium
This stadium is now called “The Oita Bank Dome.” Built about fifteen years ago, it was Kyushu’s only venue for the 2002 Soccer World Cup. The field and stands can seat 40,000 people. That’s a big facility by any standard, considering that world-famous Yankee Stadium holds about 54,000.
The stadium is so big that nearly a tenth of Oita City’s entire population can fit inside! In 2019, Oita Bank Dome will be the venue for 9th Rugby World Cup as well.
Designed to accommodate more than just sports, the Dome also hosts concerts and assemblies. The shape of the stadium is spherical; part of it touches the ground so when seen from afar it blends in well with the surrounding mountains. Its retractable roof appears spherical when both opened and closed. I was able to see the Dome while opened, and was impressed with how large it was. The surrounding parking area was huge, another rare sight in a country that is so mountainous and where space is at a premium.
Oita Bank Dome （Oita Sports Park）
HOURS OF OPERATION : 9:00～21:00
KAMADO Hell
The name Kamado Jigoku means “cooking pot hell.” A statue of a red devil atop a cooking pot guards the entrance. Some of the six differently colored ponds here are boiling, and they serve several kinds of foods, so that’s why I liked it. The day I visited Kamado, a group of happy Korean tourists were there noisily enjoying themselves. Clearly, the biggest attraction for them was the park’s foot bath, and they all crowded in and were having a ball dipping their legs in the cooler (not boiling) hot water. Next to the foot bath, the concession stand sold various traditional hot spring treats, like “onsen tamago”, eggs that have been boiled in the hot spring water, and onsen pudding. I had an egg and a steamed pork bun, which is a treat that originated in China that’s now offered at convenience stores throughout Japan. The main things to do at Kamado Hell is to nibble and enjoy looking at the colorful bubbly hot water, though I found that people watching was even more fun. I think it’s great that the local guide was able to speak a mixture of both Japanese and Korean, and he seemed to be pretty funny because the people he was leading around with a flag were laughing as they posed for photos.
Beppu Jigoku Meguri (Hell Tour)
FEES : 8 Jigoku Tour Ticket Adults 2,000 yen High School Students 1,000 yen Elementary School Students 900 yen Preschool Children 400 yen for groups of 10 and above.
Shikanoshima
To reach Kinin Park on Shikanoshima (Deer Island), you must drive along Uminonakamichi, the road in the middle of the sea, past sand dunes and an amusement park, and cross over an isthmus to reach Uminonakamichi. The Kinin Park was built around a historical discovery, the Kinin, or golden seal. It is said that the Gold Seal that Chinese Emperor Guangwu (Later Han Dynasty) presented to a local ruler in the Yayoi Era (400BC - 250AD) was discovered here. The unearthed gold seal (kinin) has been declared a national treasure and is currently on display in the Fukuoka City Museum. The park has lots of steps and ramps leading up high to the upper deck area, but it’s worth the walk up to enjoy views out over Hakata Bay over Nokonoshima and the Genkai Sea to Genkaijima. It’s a fine place to have a picnic lunch, too, especially if you stop at the hot dog stand before you reach the island and pick up a Kinrin Dog. This curious food item turns out to be a surf’n’turf concoction with golden fried squid and steak pieces on a hot-dog bun with cabbage. Most likely, this royally-colored creation sprung from the imagination of an inspired history buff. I enjoyed mine with a cola by the side of the boat-shaped hot dog stand heading back as my Kyushu tour came to an end.
Shikanoshima Island
＼ GOAL ／
DAY 3 Hakata station